My first try on Documentary type photography. A small part of larger project. Initially I used Pentax 67 II however I brought my Nikon F6 with me as well just to be safe. It was good idea! I am used shoot fashion and portraiture where I have full control over my model and I can tell them how to pose and how to stand etc... In this situation the mechanics are working on their engines and motor parts and they are not posing or listening to me or standing in one place too long. In a scenario like this its very hard to shoot everything with Pentax 67 manual focusing, it is possible but at the end I might not have all the photos I need. So I switched to F6 and as a result of that; I now have some photos shot on Pentax 67, where the quality is great because of the negative size over 35mm and when I put the photos together the quality difference is effecting the story flow of overall story. See full story here!
New addition to my street photography work. I spotted this gentelman having a conversation on the phone and sitting on the bench. So, naturally and casually, I sneaked behind him with a Mamiya RZ67 and a 180mm and photographed him.
Photographer: Bugra Ergil
Camera: Mamiya RZ67 Pro II + Mamiya Sekor Z 180mm 4.5
So, if you ask me this question the answer is depending on the shoot. In a shoot like this where the model is gorgeous and have great skin it all ends up with the photographers skills in photography and communication. As I worked on both photographs in photoshop and retouched them in a way that the client wanted, I started to realise that I spend more time on Digital photo over the film and that was already my first main reason on why I switched to Analogue Photography over Digital Photography. What do I mean by I spend more time on digital in photoshop over Film? Well I do spend considerable amount of time on scanning and it takes 2-3 days for Photofusion to process my negatives(the pro photo lab I use for colour and commercial shoots) but I accepted that as a part of my job. Once I sit down in front of the computer to work using photoshop and open both the scanned file and Digital file, I spend about one hour more editing time in the digital file. This extra hour is usually spent on Dodge and Burn tool. With film I spend very little time if not no time at all on Dodging and Burning. I used to spend a lot more time editing digital photos before I built a workflow on PhaseOne CaptureOne. With that program, I shoot and directly export files as PSD(photoshop document) with my preset adjustment applied to the photo. Here are the two photos below. The photoshoot was originally shot on digital however I just wanted to have some analog photos for my own personal use. Remember the photo I shot with Pentax has no dodge and burn. What do you think? Near future I will write about why I switch to film for %70 of my work.
Some good news! Its been some time that we did not have good news, but looks like 2017 is a good year for analogue photography and film. First kodak announced that they will be reintroducing the Ektachrome and now finally Ferrania announcing P30 (alpha). If you are wondering what does the alpha mean ? is it in the name of the product? Nope! Alpha means its the first stage testing. Usually when a product is being made, they make a small batch of alpha to test the quality, consistency, compatibility etc... then some corrections are made and beta testing begins where its now sold or distributed wider audience. Beta testing is like a real world testing however the product is still open to minor tweaking here and there. Once they understand that the product is ok and no longer needs to be altered or tested they finalise it and it can be sold with company warranty.
I wanted to do something new this year. Instead of always searching for photography projects to get involved in and look for clients in internet and other sources, I want to devote one day every week or one day every two weeks to street photography. This will also motivate me to wakeup earlier on days that I don't have photoshoots. Not to mention keep the rust off my Mamiya RZ67 Pro II.
Photographer: Bugra Ergil (me)
Camera: Mamiya RZ67 Pro II + Mamiya Sekor Z 180mm 4.5
The first post of 2017 is also my first Giff! This is from a test shoot I've done last year . . . a test to see if I can shoot kids and boy it was difficult. Art directing a kid was definitely a challenge, every time I asked her to pose in a way; she would either nod or shake off her head to say yes or no, which makes verbal communication nearly impossible.
A fisherman I spotted while I was traveling to Prince Island in Istanbul. I immediately rushed to my camera and take the photo before we passed him. Luckily he was giving way to our ferry which gave me enough time to take out the camera and take the photo in the right moment.
The mid-length portrait shot of Avatar shoot. In here I had to build a setup that was in favour of the model when it came to space management, not only the model was painted pink she also had to be behind a table. The main set was already built in several days in advance thus and also set designers were working on it thus I could not use it. So in a small area I came up with this small setup.
The black pollyboards are there to kill the spill light and add more contrast to edges of model. The Octagonal Softbox is a little higher than the camera, and the reflector is is white circular reflector to soften the shadows under the chin. Umbrellas are there to illuminate the background to the same tone as the table.
So the new Macbook Pro has arrived, and I've been waiting some time to upgrade my Macbook Pro mid 2012 (non retina - antiglare screen) I've seen online reviews, written reviews, hype, rant, salt and all love and hate about the machine. Here I'd like to tell my own point of view to this new and expensive tool as a photographer.
Not all the props in the photoshoots are real. In fact almost all commercial food photographers shoots uneatable food. In this case the ale in the glass is not actually ale; it's just over brewed tea made with London's hard tab water.
On my way back home these two fishing boats got my attention. With me I had my Pentax 67 MkII with 105mm 2.4 lens but I was out of Kodak Tmax 400 film, instead I had Ilford Delta 400 on me. If there is one film I dislike and avoid using, it's Ilford Delta Line, I don't know why but I feel like it lacks the contrast and require additional level adjustments not to mention contrast. However baggers cant be choosers, it was the only black and white medium format film I could find around me at the time.
Here is a group shot of the Cheyiz shoot. This photo was originally shot on now discontinued Fuji FP100c. however I gave the original Polaroid to the clients and kept the negative part so I could recover it. I didn't do any recovery process for over 4 months, and during this time the negative of the FP100c was resting on top of my dishwasher being exposed to sun, I was curious how this would effect the actual negative. In my experience, I get the most colour accurate and sharp results of the recovered negatives as long as I recover them with in the first two days I shot them. This four month old negative did indeed had more peculiar colours going for it self.
Galata Bridge is one of the most iconic place in Istanbul. Every day hundreds Rod-Fishers visits this bridge to catch fish. Every time I cross the bridge I wonder how many people does this bridge feed. I saw these two gentlemen on the "best spot" at the bridge. Only one was fishing and the other one was keeping his friend company. He told me that fishing for 5 hours alone is boring, and thus you need a friend to talk and share this fish.
Here is a still from the "Volume" shoot. Every time I get to use my Mamiya RZ67 ProII, I get so excited. I was in the test stage of my repaired RZ67 Pro II film backs. So I was bit nervous that entire shoot might get messed up with light leaks. Eventually everything turnout fine. The lighting is the same as the Light Setup #8
Highkey Setup. In this setup here, the light is hitting the wall behind the model and then bouncing to the polyboards behind me. The key part of not having too much spill light drowning the model in spill light is which part of the model you're getting the exposure readings from, and in here I got the exposure readings from right hand side of the model, but shoot her left side. Note: The camera is mounted on a tripod. Exposure: 1/30 sec at f16.
I think the laughable flash sync speed of Pentax 67 with non leaf shutter lens allowed me to get results which are not looking like silhouette of the model.
I photographed 6 models with this setup here and I am most pleased with Moylin's Photo.
Here is a still from the Cheyiz shoot I done for my old high school class mate. Fascinating how time passes, a decade and a half ago, we were just kids not taking the world serious, fast forward both have jobs and responsibilities. Now, I shoot this with Fuji Colour PRO 400H, and besides everyone telling me to use Kodak Portra 400 I must say I am pretty happy with the results. I have read many online forums and flickr discussions that there are wolds different on the photo . . . They are exaggerating, as long as you know what you are doing while taking the photos and you know how to scan by how to scan I mean not let the machine or computer automate the colours of your negative, then you will like what you get just like I did. Still if there was no Kodak Portra 400 outage in London during the time of shoot I would have used Kodak. Nonetheless I am happy with the results here.
Camera: Pentax 67 MkII + 105mm F2.4
Film: Fuji Colour Pro400 H
Scanned in Epson Perfection V750 Pro
Photographer: Bugra Ergil
Art Director: Su Karaman
Stylist: Estefania Hageman
Makeup artist: Pamela
Hair Stylist: Hussein / Shabnam
Managing director: Yasemin Blum
Nail Tech: Brigit
Here is one of the photographs I shot for the "I'm not there" shoot. Matthew the model was very energetic and possessed a sunny personality, he was the first model I started the shoot at 9am in the morning and it was a nice start for the day where I've six models to shoot.
Camera: Nikon F100 + Nikkor 24-70mm f2.8 G
Film: Kodak Tri-X 400 shot at box speed
Processed in Ilford DD-X
Old photographic trick. Though in my opinion it is a cliché trick that many "new to photography-photographers" love to do and fill their portfolio with a whole entire photoshoot of highkey photos! As long as its done well and they are shot and used with a photoshoot that go well together its a good trick.
Camera: Pentax 67 MkII + Pentax SMC 105mm f2.4
Film: Kodak Tri-X 400 shot at box speed
Processed in Ilford DD-X
Ever since I switched to medium format film from digital I had difficulties with the bag I have. Current camera bags which are made with 35mm digital cameras in mind, thus making it very dificult to be space efficient with cameras such as Mamiya RZ67 and Pentax 67 II, and I did not want to pay £250+ for a Pelicase tailored to my needs! I came up with the idea of why not turn inside of my bag to one of them fancy foam cases? With little research and measuring I turned my Calumet roller bag in to sexy Calumet roller bag! It cost me £20 to do so!
Separators are not optimised for Medium Format cameras.
And here comes £20 pound foam!
Its not very pretty but I've gained more space right in front of the Pentax 67 MKII
PS. I still use digital on product and other photoshoots where creative freedom is not in my hands
In this shoot, I decided to use the most underrated light modifier ever "in my opinion" it is so underused many of the new young photographers don't even know it exists. Of corse Im talking about one and only The GLOBE LIGHT.
It's a diffuser which gives light almost all around it lighting up 270% angle everything around it. It's so easy to use that you don't event need to turn the light to the model.
Funny thing: even the light drawing program I use don't have a image for globe light, therefore I had to improvise and put a image of moon there.
Backdrop is 1 and 1/2 stop less than the model. Strobe with 120 degree angle spill kill head firing through the diffusing fabric. Globe light is there to provide fill light.
It was Monday the 29th of February. The day which comes once every 4 years as leap day. I wakeup in a happy mood, wash up, had breakfast, send some e-mails, drop off 14 Rolls of Kodak Portra in Photofusion, come back home, ate lunch, clean up home, send some more e-mails, write a blogpost so I have a post published on Leapday, go to gym, 2-km rowing machine, work on abs, leg day, get dinner and breakfast at whole-foods, come home, have dinner, read some articles, chill, check Flickr (only articles and discussions) AAAANNNNNDDDDDD biggest letdown of 2016, Fuji Fucking Film Discontinue their 2nd most useful product on film market Fuji FP100-c!
Link to main article here: http://fujifilm.jp/information/articlead_0384.html Translation: Notice of instant color film "FP-100C" discontinued February 29, 2016 FUJIFILM Corporation Fuji Photo Film Co., Ltd. (President: Nakajima Naruhaku) is, the instant color film "FP-100C", will be sold lasts our stock. Fujifilm, in order to continue to provide instant color film "FP-100C", so far have had continued corporate efforts, sales volume has declined significantly from year to year, more is a situation that can not be produced . For this reason, we will be forced to sell the end as described below. This instant color sales of film "FP-100C" is will end, Fujifilm will continue to developing systems that offers access to the photographic film to continue while the review and production efficiency also product line up future . We will continue our continued support to the Fujifilm product, you look forward to your patronage, thank you. Record
1. Discontinued product name Instant color film "FP-100C" FP-100C PS 1 FP-100C PS 20 FP-100C PSSL 1 FP-100C PSSL 20 2. shipment end time prospect 2016 around spring ※ end time because of the prospect, there is a possibility that the front and back. For inquiries about this matter please contact the following. Customer Communication Center TEL 03-5786-1711 Hours: Monday to Friday (9:00 am - 5:40 pm), Saturday (10:00 - 5:00 pm) I think FujiFilm should change it's name to FujiDigital and sell digital mirrorless rangefinder wanna be cameras to hipsters!
Still-Life photography is harder than it sounds. The subject is in front of the lens and there are some light here and there and thats it. Did you you realise? It sounds easy! No! Lucky I got the Lighting result I wanted without a sweat, and 4 hours of oyster retouching later BAM! One photo of oyster coming up! The 4 hour photoshop was to remove the black dots which was on the oyster, only If we had skilled oyster opener person in the studio, I might have spend quarter the time I did spend on this photo.
Here is a polaroid group shot from "Age" Shoot, If you look close I am the only one wearing colourful clothes in a team of plain black dressing people. . . And if you really look at the photo you will notice that my legs and feet are transparent like Marty McFly, and if you don't know who that is, then you're probably too young and you should get back to doing your homework!
Camera: Mamiya RZ67 Pro II + Mamiya Sekor 110mm W
Film: Fuji FP-100c
So why my feet and legs are all back to the future-like? Simple: Since Mamiya RZ67 Pro II don't have self timer, I had to turn the room in to a camera, well not a perfect camera but a functioning camera. Mamiya RZ67 Pro II had the longest exposure of 8 sec. So in theory If I Prefocus the camera, turn all lights and modelling lights off and close the curtains to a level that it will block all major lights from outside source, and have the aperture set to something like F22, then the photo will not be exposed until I remotely trigger the Strobe Lighting, It should expose us like someone else take the photo. Against my best effort, the studio was not a complete blackout studio so the floor and reflective things got exposed a little bit by the time I run to the position and trigger the strobes. Luckily everyone was wearing black and the very little light that got in the studio did not expose the blacks by the time I got there!
This is not a big accomplishment but it's still exciting in my opinion. Ever since I started to process my own negatives at home, I finished my ever first bottle of Kodak Black and White film developer HC-110. I had to process about 100 of 35mm film however I think I processed a lot less since I processed great amount of medium format as well as 35mm film. Last Friday was very productive day in my Darkroom/Toilet, because not only I processed my negatives, I also processed my two other friends films as well. Here below a photo of how my toilet looked like at the end of Friday, and yes I can say that I actually spent my Friday in my Toilet!
Terry! Sometimes you just need to be direct! Maria has incredible face features already, so all we needed some light to form the shadows. One thing to keep in mind that, you should keep your distance from the model unchanged during the shoot, if you increase or decrease the distance the exposure will change. The light is mounted on your camera . . . DUH!
Small Speedlight softbox mounted SB900 on cameras Hotshoe did the trick well!
OK! I must admit, this is due to my laziness that I am making a very late blog-post about this.
While I was still in London College of Fashion, studying BA Fashion Styling and Photography(majoring in photography), I heard about the technicians and sometimes the tutors telling us this recovery method in order to get unusual effects on our photographs. Many of my class mates shied away from this method finding it complicated and many others just shot digital or stick with film but not polaroid. I in the other hand and perhaps two more class mates of that time, wasn't interested in this process because we wanted more colour accurate results, and thus nobody did this resulting a class of 60 Fashion photography students not seeing process or result of this method. But today I'm here to change that!
I came across a blog post about this recovery process while I was searching the web for the most affordable Fuji FP 100C since you can find them from £22 to £12. After carefully reading it from several blogs I decided to add my own input.
For starters, you will need a camera which is capable of taking peel apart polaroid film. In my case I used my Mamiya RZ67 Pro II with Polaroid back!
So I asked my friend Lolo to take a photo of me! It was bit hard for her to focus under the influence of alcohol but I think she got close enough (no complains).